Rome - St. Peters

Got up early to try get to St. Peters Basilica before the line got too bad. We took the bus number 115, that went up a hill with a great view of the city.  We arrived at St. Peter's and the line was already very long, but we were early enough that a lot of it was in shade and it moved very quickly.

In less than an hour we were in the huge space inside St. Peters. First stop on the right was Michaelangelo's magical Pieta.

Walked down the length of the basilica, each side chapel the size of a cathedral. There is a huge 4 post alter over the entrance to St. Peter's tomb in the middle.

At the very end, where there was another alter, priests were entering in a line as a mass was starting.

Back up the other side, looking in the side chapels. just trying to capture the immense scale of the place.

Incredible mosaics. All along both sides there are statues and tombs of popes.

Up the river in the general direction of Trastevere, looking for a shopping area but Google maps was not useful. At the pedestrian bridge that goes to the centre of Trastevere, but turned in direction toward town to see what we could find. Turns out there was a large market, Campo de Fiori, with a food market in a plaza, and shops all around.

Back to Trastevere for dinner, and then back to the hotel to back for the flight the next day.

Rome - Colosseum

We had booking for a tour of the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palantine Hill, and had to be there by 9:00. We got on a bus briefly but weren't sure if it would go to the right place, or on time. Got off and walked and ran to the metro station where the meeting point was supposed to be. Someone directed us to the point for our tour company. It was very hot in Rome, 30 degrees and intense sun, so we were already drenched in sweat. We waited in the shade to cool off a bit while the tour group gathered.

It was a small group and the guide was nice but had a heavy accent. We entered colosseum, learned about the sails over the open top that provided shade, which were controlled manually by ropes to account for wind. The colosseum structure has 3 layers, like concentric ellipses. On one side the outer layers are missing due to earthquake. The construction had large stone blocks, with balls of metal between the blocks to provide flexibility in an earthquake. In many places they are covered with bricks for smoother surface.

One side of the colosseum had an entrance of emperor, another for the Vestal Virgins. There were 55000 seats for citizens, the rest standing. Over the gates are numbers, and there were terracota and bronze tickets for different classes of people entering.

Originally there was a wooden floor with gates for animals and fighters. It could also be flooded and drained in real time for boat battles.

Population of Rome was 1 million at its peak, but was down to 20,000 in Middle Ages. At that time people lived in the colosseum and used it as fortress. There was a church built inside.

From the colosseum there views of the ruins of the temple of Venus and Rome

and the gate of Constantine.

The tour then went past the forum, up Palantine Hill. This was the location of the original settlement of Rome, and then the location of the Emperors place. The palace was destroyed by the great fire of Rome in 64 AD, and then the Emperor Nero built a huge place in it's place. 

We then headed down to the forum, passing the Arch of Titus.

Then past the huge Basilica of Maxentius.

Then around a corner to a row of statues which was part of the temple of the Vestal Virgins.

Then into the main part of the forum, the procession area, with the ruins of various temples, and the ruins of the main government to one side. 

After the tour, we cross the main road at the side of the forum, and up a side street for lunch. Walked over to the main tourist area, near the Trevi fountain where we were before. Bought a bottle of limoncello. Then down the main shopping street of via del Corso, where I bought a jacket.

Walked back to hotel. On the way crossed a 2000 year old bridge over part of the Tiber river.

 After resting and getting cleaned up we walked further down street to great little restaurant called Matto (fool in Italian) for very good dinner with dessert and a great server.

Back in Rome

 We took the train back to Rome, and the bus to the hotel in the Trastevere area. The bus routes seem to meander all over the place. This one took to past the Piazza Venezia in front of the huge Monument of Vittorio Emanuele, built in the early 1900's to celebrate the anniversary of a united Italy.

The hotel is actually at the far side of Trastevere, which looks a bit rougher, more dirty, lots of graffiti. The hotel itself is fine in an apartment building with the room looking over the courtyard. After checking in, we walk across the nearest bridge over the Tiber river, past the bottom of Capitoline Hill, to the Piazza Venezia. It is a major traffic hub so not much to see right there, but we found a place for lunch and had a huge lunch of bruschettas.

We walk back toward the river, and stumble across a Jewish area, with shops and restaurants serving Kosher food, and a plaques commemorating a round-up of Jews in 1943. Just past this are ruins of the Marcello theatre. It is round like a small colosseum, and looks like it has had stuff build on top of it. 

There is also the ruins of an old Roman walkway, the Portico d'Ottavia, which has had an old church built into it.

Across the river to the centre of Trastevere, we find a little pub and have a craft beer. Then spend tim winding our way through Trastevere area with plazas with music, streets lined with restaurants.

We find the main road and head back to the hotel.

Florence - Boboli

 The last day in Florence, we took it easy in the morning. Celene went looking in shops, and I finished the painting I started un San Gimigniano.

In the afternoon we went to the large Boboli Garden, with its numerous walkways, statues, and some open space. 

From the entrance we went straight up to the Gentleman's Pavilion, which great views of the countryside just outside Florence. 

As we walked through the park there were were artistic performances happening, with music and narrated modern dance. It was part of the Apocalyptic theme of the exhibition at Pitti Palace, and was interesting that it used strong religious themes.

We walked through the rest of the park, which actually looked like it hasn't been maintained well: the statues are dirty, etc.

The weather had gotten hot again, so we went back to the hotel to rest a bit before going for dinner at a very popular restaurant that we had made reservations for.

After that we walked around at night, over the Ponte Vecchio were the same street performer we'd seen before was playing guitar and singing Italian songs.

San Gimigniano and San Lorenzo

 On Monday we got up early went to the train station, stopping at San Lorenzo basilica. 

Caught a train to Poggibonsi, and then a bus to San Gimigniano. This a medieval stone hilltop town with several surviving towers. The preservation of the medieval feeling of the town is amazing, despite the rows of tourist shops and restaurants. We walked up the main street to Cisterna Piazza and Duomo piazza, all surrounded by towers.

There was a 100m long lineup at a gelato place that had won some award for world's best gelato.

We walked all the way to the end of the street, had lunch with a view of the Tuscan countryside. From there we followed a path that goes along the old wall that surrounds the town, as far as we could. 

Then up streets to the highest point, where are remains of a fortress. There is a winery with more amazing views. Back to the centre of town, where we listened to a couple of guys playing traditional music. I then sat for a while and did a sketch.

We caught the bus and train back to Florence. Just past the train station is the huge San Lorenzo market. There is an indoor market selling food, and we had dinner and a beer.

From the San Lorenzo market we walked down Faenza street, which is very lively with lots of restaurants and bars, and not so touristy. I had a beer at a craft beer place. 

Made our way back to the hotel.

Florence - Duomo and Academia

On Saturday we had a booking for the climb up the dome of the Duomo, first thing in the morning. We met the representative and exchanged our reservation for an official pass that had a time slot for the climb up the dome. The pass also includes access to the bell tower, the baptistry, the basilica crypt, and the museum. 

We got in line and when our time came, started up the narrow stone passageway with steps up to the top of the dome.

On the way there was a great close up view of the painting on the inside of the dome. 

From the very top there were great views of the city in all directions.

Next, after a bit of a break for a coffee and a pastry, we got in line for the climb up the bell tower. It was not quite as high, but the passage was very narrow and there were people going in both directions. There a couple platforms on the to take a break, each one offering a view of the Duomo from a different level. One was of the platforms was right underneath the bells, which started chiming 11:30 while we were there. Deafening. 

We made it to the top, took in the view, and headed down. 

Looking for a place for lunch, we found a really local restaurant, run by two sisters and a friend for 23 years.

Afterward we went back to the hotel for a nap. Then walked down the river a bit and up the switch-backing walkway to the Piazza Michaelango with its fantastic views of the city. A lot of people were there waiting for the sunset. We had  drink and waited as well.

This was a Saturday so the crowds seemed larger than before, and it was even harder to find a place to eat. Had pizza at a little place beside the hotel.

 On Sunday we had a booking for the Academia Galleria, where Michaelangelo's statue of David is. The booking was not until the afternoon, so in the morning we walked a bit.

As soon as we stepped out of the hotel we saw thousands of people in purple T-shirts, on a fun-run through the city and around the river.

We walked by the Santa Croce basilica. There are tombs inside of Galileo and Michaelangelo. Had a look around the outside and stopped for coffee.

Near the Academia is the piazza and church of Santissima Annunziata. The courtyard before the church entrance has a set of frescos covering all the walls. 

Mass was just ending so we could go inside the church, which had a spectacular altar and dome.

Then we made our way to the Academia, got our tickets, and went inside. The first room had panel paintings from the 1300's in the pre-Renaisaance style, as well as some from Bottechelli. The next room had some unfinished sculptures by Michaelangelo. At the end of the room was the David.

The next room was an old school for sculpture, full of plaster casts. There was a video on using preparatory casts to carve in marble, and also making casts from existing statues.

Afterward we went back to the hotel for a rest. We then walked along the river in the direction away from the centre. 

Near a gate in the old city wall we found a great, local funky bar where we had appetizers and I had a great local IPA.

Walked toward the hotel, had dinner again up the road at Tratoria Boboli.

Tuscany bike tour

We had booked a bike / wine tour in the Tuscan countryside for this day, with Tuscany Bike Tours. We walked to the tour office in the Santa Croce area, and met the group. There were a few different groups, some cycling, others on vespas. There were 8 of us in the cycling group. A couple from Australia, a few from the States, and a guy from India.

We got into the van and drove to the start of the cycling  which was a beautiful old family estate that was a winery and olive oil maker. 

The cycle was fairly short, less than 20km, and the first part of it was mostly downhill. We stopped to take some pictures of the amazing countryside. 

Angus, our guide, talked about the different types of grapes that are grown. Most grapes are machine harvested and fermentation starts early, for cheaper wines. Some grapes are hand-selected to make very expensive wines, and the fermentation is more controlled. They don't sell a lot of it, so it doesn't make much money, but it creates a good reputation for the winery. When grape season is over they switch to harvestng and pressing olives for olive oil. That is why there are both vines and olive treea everywhere.

The last part was a very steep uphill climb to make up all the elevation we'd gone down. A few of us did it, the rest took the van.

Back at the estate we had a tour of the winery and the olive oil production and had a pasta lunch with different wines.

We drove back to Florence, getting in about 3:00pm. We walked back to the hotel, then found a laudromat and did some much-needed laundry. Then for dinner in the Santo Spirito area. 

Siena

The next day was a day trip to Siena, just south of Florence. In the middle age Siena and Florence were competing neighbouring kingdoms. We caught a regional train, and from the Siena train station there is a long series of escalators to take up to the edge of the city centre. It seemed wierd at first because the escalators start in a shopping mall. From the top you get a view of the Tuscan countryside. 

You come near an old gate on the city wall, walk down quaint, medieval style street.

Arrive at Il Campo, the huge circular plazza in the heart of the city. Beside it is Siena's old city hall with its tower. 

We bought some food at a grocery store and made lunch, sitting outside. We then wandered a bit to find the Duomo. It is very easy to get lost, since there are no right angles and the streets seem to take you in circles. Eventually we found it and walked around the outside.

Walking back to the train station we took a side road and found a great view of the Duomo. Took the train to Florence. Walking back to the hotel we went into the Santa Trinita basilica, of the Vallumbrosan monks, which has an early gothic style inside and a crypt.

After getting back to the hotel,  we had dinner in the Santa Spirito plaza which has a lot of restaurants.